On February 27, 2025, during Milan Fashion Week, David Koma presented his first collection as creative director of Blumarine for the Fall-Winter 2025-2026 season. The show opened with top model Irina Shayk, who wore a structured coat with shearling details, embodying the brand’s new stylistic direction under Koma’s leadership.
The collection, described by Koma as “dark romanticism”, blended Blumarine’s signature romanticism with a modern and structured approach. A recurring motif was the thistle, a symbol of protection and fragility, featured as crystal embellishments on denim and as a decorative element on other pieces. The fabrics included organza, chiffon, and georgette, enhanced by modern corsets and silver details.
Before his runway debut, Koma introduced his vision for Blumarine through a pre-fall collection and appearances at events like the Fashion Awards, aiming to connect the brand with both younger and more mature audiences. Under his direction, Blumarine seeks to enhance fabric quality while making prices more accessible, maintaining the Y2K aesthetic introduced by former creative director Nicola Brognano.
With this collection, David Koma has ushered in a new era for Blumarine, blending the brand’s romantic legacy with a contemporary and structured aesthetic, promising an innovative future for the Italian maison.
